Ammer-Amper Cycle Route: Always Along the Water

On the Hörnle, a popular viewpoint in the Ammergau Alps, lush green meadows stretch up into the steep slopes. 'Normally, the mountain farmers wouldn't mow here because it's not worth it,' says Nina Helmschrott, coordinator in the Ammergau Alps Nature Park. However, once a year they do it anyway and thus prevent the slopes from becoming overgrown. 'This creates a unique habitat for rare species of plants and insects,' Helmschrott explains.

To learn what happens with the harvested hay, you can go about 15 kilometers further north to the Schönegger Käsealm. There you can try Alpine farmer hay milk cheese, which is produced by the operation of master cheesemaker Sepp Krönauer - natural, GMO-free, and without the use of silage as feed for the cows. His family-run business is so successful that his cheese is now exported to around two dozen countries.

Hörnle and Schönegger Käsealm have a common feature. They lie on the Ammer-Amper Cycle Route, which stretches a precise 202 kilometers from the Alps out through the foothills west past Munich to the mouth of the Amper into the Isar near Moosburg. The General German Bicycle Club (ADFC) awarded it four stars, the second-highest category, as the only long-distance bike route in Upper Bavaria for its quality.

Starting in Oberammergau, known for its passion plays, woodcarving art, and fresco paintings on house facades, the route initially runs along the Ammer to the so-called Scheibum near Saulgrub. Here, rock walls narrow the river to just nine meters wide. For the next 20 kilometers, it forms a canyon up to 70 meters deep, so narrow that the cycle route must leave the river course several times.

In this section, the Ammer flows through the Pfaffenwinkel. This designation might sound derogatory to northern German ears. 'With us, Pfaffe is not an insult,' says Elisabeth Welz from the tourism association. In the 18th century, the theologian Franz Sales Gailler described the region as an 'area before the mountains that is blessed more than others with first-class monasteries.' According to Welz, today there are still 159 churches and monasteries in Pfaffenwinkel. Their towers and domes are landmarks in the quiet, picturesque hilly landscape.

The long-distance cycle route leads via Peiting and Peißenberg towards Weilheim, the county town with a pedestrian zone shaped by medieval charm, offering itself as the first stage destination after 65 kilometers. On the way, the tour holds a true surprise. The artist Bernd Zimmer has realized the Stoa 169 in the open landscape just before Polling, an accessible hall with 121 columns designed by various artists.

There is a golden knot, a fist, a matchstick, motif columns with newspaper pages, and much more. 'It is an idealistic object, freely accessible and open to everyone,' says Bernd Meier, spokesman for the foundation set up for the Stoa 169. Although it only opened last September, according to his information, around 70,000 visitors have already been there.

On the way from Weilheim to Ammersee, there is almost constant birdsong in the air in the floodplain in the morning, possibly from a Whinchat. But a layperson would only know it is such if they meet someone like Klaus Summa. 'The area at the mouth of the Ammer into the lake is a nationwide destination for birdwatchers, there are even organized bus tours,' he reports. With his camera with a very long tripod, Summa is easily recognizable as a birdwatcher and photographer. He has already noted Ruff, various birds of prey, and many songbirds for the day.

In Dießen, the route reaches Lake Ammersee, the third largest lake in Bavaria. Early in the day, the promenade is already bustling, as is the picturesque fishery, a small quarter with fish shops, cafes, and stores. A stay with a view of the lake is worthwhile, as this is often not possible later. Instead, if you wish, you can enjoy 'villa-watching'. The shore is often built up outside baths and towns with large houses on large properties behind solid walls, creating the impression that some certainly affluent owners fear a revolution of the lower classes.

In Eching on the north shore, the lake provides the second namesake river for the cycle route, the Amper. It first leads the cyclist to Fürstenfeldbruck and there over the grounds of the impressive baroque monastery. It continues to Dachau, suitable as the second stage destination after 136 kilometers overall.

The district town is widely known as the site of one of the first concentration camps built by the National Socialists. Since 1965, it has served as a memorial with a museum and archive. But Dachau has more to offer. 'The residents are proud that the city was first mentioned in documents in 805 and thus about 350 years earlier than Munich,' says city guide Matthias Schüßler.

The historic old town with its castle, garden, and the Renaissance church St. Jakob has been under ensemble protection since 1984 and is situated on the only elevation in the landscape far and wide. 'From here, Munich lies at your feet,' explains Schüßler. Indeed: In the right weather, the state capital presents her silhouette, even the onion towers of the Frauenkirche can be made out.

There are still a good 60 kilometers to the Isar mouth in Moosburg. To be honest: This stage holds back with attractions and mainly unfolds its charm for those who want to let their thoughts wander in nature while cycling and want to finish what they started. However, there is still time for a stop at the idyllic swimming lake Kranzberger See. The old town of Moosburg with its church towers and historic townhouses then marks the end of the journey.

Getting there: By car via Munich to Oberammergau. From Munich on highway A 95 towards Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the federal road 2 to the exit towards Ettal and Oberammergau. To Moosburg, it goes via Nuremberg and Ingolstadt, then on the A 93 to Wolnzach and finally on federal road 301 to the destination. Alternatively, take the train to Munich. From there, there are regional train connections via Murnau to Oberammergau, directly to Moosburg, as well as to Dachau and Fürstenfeldbruck if you don't want to ride the entire tour. Due to bicycle transport, it is advisable to use regional trains outside peak hours.

Best time to travel: The suitable travel time depends on the weather conditions in the Alps. The period from May to September is best.

The tour: The tour runs on well-developed roads and paths and is well signposted. In the Pfaffenwinkel, the profile is undulating, otherwise mostly comfortably flat. No high demands are required.

Accommodations: Since the cycle route largely runs through popular tourist areas, reservations are recommended. A list of so-called Bed+Bike establishments recommended by the ADFC as bicycle-friendly can be accessed on the route's website.

Further information: Those who do not want to organize the trip individually can book a seven-day package tour with rental bike - either with an e-bike or trekking bike.

The trip was supported by the participating tourism associations and communities of the Ammer-Amper Cycle Route. The editorial team alone decides on the selection and orientation of the content.