A Vacation in Gibraltar - Must-See Places

They have clearly picked the best spot: The Barbary macaques on the Rock of Gibraltar lazily bask on a canopy of the cable car station, enjoying the sun. The view of the harbor is unobstructed. Occasionally, they climb along the railing, looking for food carelessly discarded by visitors.

Some seem to find amusement in frightening the guests sitting one floor below in the refined Mons Calpe Suite bar: With a loud bang, the animals jump against the window from the outside, startling the patrons. The Rock of Gibraltar: This is their domain.

For centuries, there has been a dispute over who should have authority over the Rock and its surrounding narrow strip of land. Since 1704, Gibraltar has been officially under British administration. However, since then, neighboring Spain has claimed this mere 6.5 square kilometers of land. Twice, the government let the 35,000 residents of this British overseas territory vote on which country they felt they belonged to. Both times, nearly 99 percent chose the English crown, most recently in 2002.

No matter who issues the passport, daily life here is as English as it gets, reminiscent of a Miss Marple film. People shop at the department store of the British retail icon Marks & Spencer. The massive Morrisons supermarket near the marina stocks more or less the same products as its English branches, from toast made in England to cheddar cheese.

Even the milk comes from Great Britain. Every day, seven trucks are on the road to haul goods from England to the sunny Rock of Gibraltar. If it weren't for the fact that many go out in shorts and T-shirts for most of the year, people might think they were on the English Channel rather than the Mediterranean.

Graziella Priego showcases the other side of Gibraltar to visitors, the Rock itself. The young woman is a tour guide and offers free tours of the British overseas territory with 'Walk the Rock 4 Free.' She's quite enthusiastic about the Rock. The limestone formation, which reaches up to 426 meters, is an omnipresent symbol of the territory and is visible from afar in Spain and from the sea. It is also one of Southern Europe's most beautiful natural parks. 'People come to the Rock for the nature and adventure,' says Priego. Observing the sea and the birds calms visitors. 'They can breathe peace up there.'

A series of manageable trails now open up the 'Rock,' particularly the History Buff trail, which spans 4.3 kilometers from south to north, passing through several hundred years of intriguing history, mainly military history.

Britain maintains its presence on the Rock not due to the good weather but because of its military significance. British military facilities are said to extend through large parts of the Rock like an ant farm, as people recount in the Angry Friar, one of the many English pubs in the city center.

How many of those facilities are still in use? Only the Ministry of Defense in London probably knows, people at the counter lament. Military areas of Gibraltar remain closed to visitors. The military explains the significance briefly: 'Gibraltar is well-positioned to observe maritime routes through the Strait and could dominate the western entrance to the Mediterranean in wartime.' It's a prime location whose advantages have been known for centuries.

Long before the British, the Moors ruled over the Rock. The remnants of their fortress are the starting point of the History Buff trail. Their Moorish Castle, built in 711, inaugurated an era that remains visible in many aspects of Gibraltar to this day. Moorish elements are a firm part of many buildings, even in the city center.

Not far away, the significance of the area during World War II becomes apparent. The World War II Tunnels offer insights into the time when the British conducted their African campaign from here. In 1942, more than 30,000 British soldiers were stationed in Gibraltar. They transformed the interior of the Rock into a small city, with the tunnels stretching around 52 kilometers in total. A small portion is accessible as a museum today.

Legend has it that Britain will lose Gibraltar if the last monkey leaves the Rock, although this has never been officially documented. However, in 1942, the monkey population on the Rock dwindled to just about a dozen, with extinction looming. The British Army actually rounded them up and took care of them, allowing them to thrive. Now, there are nearly 300. Until 1999, maintaining the animals was officially an expense item of the Ministry of Defense in London. These days, the monkeys regularly cross paths with visitors on the History Buff trail.

Several other trails intersect with the History Buff: The Monkey Trail spans 2.5 kilometers along the favorite haunts of the Barbary macaques. Nature Lover (3.2 kilometers) mainly focuses on the Rock's most beautiful flora, while Thrill Seeker (2.5 kilometers) promises excitement due to its path along sometimes extremely steep stairs and trails - climbing is not ruled out. For all this, it compensates with breathtaking vistas and is much less crowded.

Currently, however, stagnation predominates here as in the rest of the world. Gibraltar's Minister for Economy, Tourism and Transport, Vijay Daryanani, looks with concern at the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic, although the Rock has been hit relatively mildly so far. Concepts for restarting operations are being developed, he explained on the local broadcaster GBC. However, everything depends on when airlines and cruise ships resume regular operations. 'It's a matter of commitment, we have to start anew,' said Daryanani.

Travel: Direct flights to Gibraltar are mainly available from London, but not from Germany. The fastest route from there is to fly to Málaga or Jerez in Spain and continue with a rental car. Caution: Not all car rental companies allow their vehicles to be taken into Gibraltar.

Entry: Gibraltar is part of the United Kingdom. So far, an ID card has been sufficient for entry. Once the Brexit details are negotiated, a passport might be needed. Caution upon exit: Cigarettes and alcohol are cheaper in Gibraltar than in the EU, but only quantities typical for non-EU countries can be imported, including a carton of cigarettes and a liter of alcohol.

Currency: The currency is the Gibraltar Pound, which is pegged to the same rate as the British Pound. English money is also accepted.