Hidden Treasures: Plenty of Discoveries in Turin

From opulent palaces to modern meeting spaces in old industrial sites, Turin, the capital of Piedmont, has a lot to offer. Even a visit to the pharmacy is worthwhile.

In Turin, you sometimes have to look closely - and you have to know what you're looking for. For example, at the Church of San Lorenzo on Piazza Castello, right next to the royal palace.

Both are beautiful but somewhat unassuming buildings in the eastern part of the Italian city, which has more than 880,000 residents. Yet inside, there is much to discover.

The Baroque Church by architect Guarino Guarini contains not only frescoes and statues but also four black holes in the walls. On certain days, at the right time and with good weather, the sun aligns just right to reveal hidden paintings. Guarini was not just an architect but also an astronomer. For those who arrive at the wrong time or without the sun's help, a flashlight can also work.

The adjacent royal palace, once the residence of the House of Savoy, impresses mainly with its interior: One plush gilded hall follows the next. Spanning three centuries, the palace's interior design merges Baroque, Rococo, and Neoclassicism.

Through the palace, you can also reach the chapel of the cathedral, which houses the famous Shroud of Turin. Right next to it are the ruins of the Roman theater - and the Porta Palatina, the city gate from Roman times, and the colorful market hustle and bustle at Porta Palazzo, are just a short walk away.

When everything is so close together, you might think that the sights of the capital of Piedmont at the foot of the Alps can be visited quickly. But Lina Brun disagrees. And she should know: The 84-year-old is from the region, has worked as a tour guide since 1961, and as a city guide in Turin since 1987. She has even published a book about Piedmontese recipes. 'It's impossible to see Turin in two or three days. You need 40 days for Turin,' she says. 'There are so many treasures here that are very well hidden.'

It helps to have someone like Brun as a city guide. She knows every café owner and museum staff member and can tell a story about virtually every building in the city. During the tour, she casually makes a detour to the venerable Regia Farmacia pharmacy, where Andrea Biancone offers all sorts of potions among medicines, cosmetics, and pet supplies. An 'Elixir for Long Life,' for example, or 'Balsam from Jerusalem' based on a recipe from 1600. You can taste rhubarb and gentian, but Biancone naturally doesn't reveal the exact recipe.

The most striking building in Turin is the Mole Antonelliana, standing at 167.5 meters tall. No other building may surpass it in height. Originally planned as a synagogue, the Jewish community could no longer afford it due to high construction costs. Today, it houses the National Cinema Museum.

It showcases the beginnings of film as well as props from modern blockbusters, appealing not just to devoted cinema enthusiasts but also to families. Before or after visiting the museum, you can take the elevator to the dome of the Mole and enjoy views over the city.

The city has a special relationship with chocolate, which is evident in a Turin coffee specialty: Bicerin. Hot chocolate is layered with coffee and liquid cream in a glass. Warning: do not stir!

The drink is as filling as it sounds - a boon for Catholics during Lent when drinking was allowed. Bicerin is best enjoyed in one of the numerous traditional cafés found in the lengthy arcades and galleries. The original can be found at Caffé Al Bicerin (Piazza della Consolata 5).

Yet Turin can boast more than tradition - it also shines with the creative repurposing of old industrial sites. The best example is the Lingotto plant from Fiat. The production building has since become a shopping center with a cinema and restaurants. The roof test track, the Pista 500, was greened and adorned with artworks in 2022.

Next door is the first Eataly branch - a combination of supermarket, restaurant, and museum, developed from a vermouth production hall. Another factory site was transformed into a mix of brewery, restaurant, coworking space, and loft hotel under the name EDIT. As is often the case in Turin, not everything is as it first appears.

Travel: Direct flights to Turin are available from New York City and Los Angeles.

Best time to visit: Turin is warm and humid in the summer and cool in winter. As early summer can be rainy, the best time to visit is from July to September.

Attractions: Royal Palace: Piazzetta Reale 1. Open: Tuesday to Sunday from 9 AM to 7 PM. Tickets cost 15 euros.

Cinema Museum: Via Montebello 20. Open: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Sunday from 9 AM to 7 PM, Friday and Saturday from 9 AM to 8 PM. Museum tickets cost 15 euros, elevator tickets 9 euros, combination tickets 20 euros.

Egyptian Museum: Via Accademia delle Scienze 6. Open: Monday from 9 AM to 2 PM, Tuesday to Sunday from 9 AM to 6:30 PM. Tickets cost 14 euros.

Choco Story: Via Sacchi 42. Open daily from 10 AM to 5 PM, closed from August 12 to 25, 2024. Tickets cost 12 euros.

Pista 500: Via Ermanno Fenoglietti 103. Open: Tuesday to Sunday from 11 AM to 9 PM. Tickets for Pista 500 are 2.10 euros, and for the art exhibition, 10.60 euros.

EDIT: Piazza Teresa Noce 15/A. Open: Monday to Thursday from 8:30 AM to 1 AM, Friday 8:30 AM to 2 AM, Saturday 5 PM to 2 AM, Sunday 5 PM to 1 AM.

Caffé Al Bicerin: Piazza della Consolata 5. Open: Thursday to Tuesday from 8:45 AM to 7:15 PM.

Further information: If you plan to visit multiple attractions and museums, a Torino+Piemonte Card for 24, 48, 72, or 120 hours might be worthwhile. It starts at 29 euros.

The trip was supported by Turismo Torino. The selection and orientation of the content are solely decided by the editors.

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