Off to the Islands: Exploring Sweden's Smallest Province

The sun is shining, a refreshing breeze blows across our faces. After about a 15-minute ferry ride from the small harbor of Järnavik, the ship confidently approaches what seems like an unassuming islet. The hustle and bustle is soon forgotten, having had no chance to take root on the approach.

In Blekinge, Sweden's smallest province located in the south, the mainland coast is teeming with rocky islets formed by the Ice Ages: archipelagos, some larger, some smaller. The abundance of islands is often referred to as an archipelago garden, and the Swedes rightly rave about their archipelago. The UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Blekinge Archipelago offers 47 nature reserves.

Along the 270-kilometer-long hiking trail Blekingeleden, cyclists pass pastures, forests, and lakes and get a good overview of the region's various landscapes. Accommodations are available at regular intervals along the trail. The province also has a network of trails called ARK 56, which winds through the archipelago. The hiking, cycling, sailing, and paddling routes intersect at 13 points. But let's get back to our ship.

Our destination, the Tjärö nature reserve, comes into view, a 75-hectare island like something out of a picture book. The first red wooden cottages invite from afar: pure Astrid Lindgren romance. When will Pelle, Tjorven, Stina, and the friendly St. Bernard bosun appear around the corner to welcome us to Saltkrokan?

Carolina Lundberg and Martin Thell perfectly represent the fictional children's group. They have managed the 13 Sweden-red cottages here since 2016, some of which date back to the 19th century: Tjärö Hotel & Vandrarhem offers 137 beds in 52 simple but charming rooms, suitable for families, couples, anglers, and water sports enthusiasts-young and old. Campers are also welcome here.

One highlight, besides the partially wooded landscape, well-marked hiking trails, the superb views, and swimming coves with rustic seating areas and fire pits: a raft sauna. The interior of the cottages and rooms promises what the exterior suggests: coziness without frills. But this also means: no televisions. However, the best program takes place right outside the front door.

The waters of Blekinge-sea, lakes, and streams-are also suitable for fishing: The archipelago is colloquially known as Pike Kingdom (Gäddriket). There are several providers of guided fishing tours. Fly fishing is also possible. The river through Mörrum is even considered Sweden's best sport fishing water.

Or how about a guided kayaking tour? Åke Olsson not only explains how to paddle. He also gladly sits at the back of the tandem kayak and knows where the archipelago shows its most fascinating side. He repeatedly steers the kayak around the next archipelago arm until it returns to Tjärö.

The hotel and hostel on Tjärö cooperate with Svenska Turist Föreningen (STF). This nonprofit membership association has been committed to ensuring that everyone has free access to nature since 1885. Sustainable tourism, combined with affordable, unique, and often original accommodations: 250 of them are available for selection.

Also included is an architecturally sophisticated accommodation on the Blekinge archipelago island of Aspö, easily accessible by free car ferry from Karlskrona: The tower, visible from afar, was built in 1944 as an observation platform for pilots. The lower part served as a shelter while the top offered a view of the sea.

There is no elevator here, but climbing the stairs is rewarded with magnificent views. Not just at the top, but one can enjoy a clear view of the lushly wooded island and, of course, the sea. Today, the five floors house just as many rooms with private baths. Sven-Erik Löfgren had the idea in the late nineties to convert the 20-meter-high tower into a guesthouse.

The former harbor pilot was drawn professionally to Saudi Arabia several times before he returned with his wife and children to Aspö. He was particularly taken with the pilot tower there.

'I bought it, hired an architect, and had the five floors converted into cozy guest rooms,' says the now 78-year-old, while his gaze sweeps from the top to the sea fortress Drottningskär from the 17th century. It, along with the naval harbor of Karlskrona with its former shipyards and defense installations, as well as the old town, is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Leaving behind the 500-soul island with its walking and cycling trails, a visit to Karlskrona is recommended. This military port city, established in 1680 by order of King Charles XI, stretches over more than 30 islets and whose core remains well-preserved and honored by UNESCO.

Small shops and charming cafés like the cute Systrarna Lindqvist (Sisters Lindqvist) with its own bakery invite for a stroll and a Swedish coffee break, the Fika: Cinnamon rolls are a treat here, not just on National Cinnamon Roll Day on October 4th.

One of the most photographed sights stands in front of the wooden Admiralty Church from 1685: Gubben Rosenbom. The life-size wooden figure of an old man in boatswain's attire, extending his hand to beg, commemorates a tramp who, according to legend, froze in front of the church in 1717.

His hat can be lifted. Whoever drops a coin in here is making a delayed gesture of goodwill: The sculpture now serves as a collection box for the poor. Incidentally, the original is inside the church.

Crowded with tourists on weekends and during the high season, yet still worth a visit, is the shipyard worker's district Björkholmen with its small, colorful houses in narrow lanes. The Brändaholm Garden Colony from 1920 has also gained great fame for good reason.

The site with 45 picturesque red-and-white houses is open to everyone, and a stroll is worthwhile. The neighborhood is meant to stay lively; buyers of one of the coveted plots must therefore reside in Karlskrona.

The garden colony is a popular postcard motif throughout Sweden. 'The fact that it's located in Karlskrona is often omitted,' says Anna Eriksson from Visit Blekinge. So Blekinge rightly prides itself on being a hidden gem.

Getting There: By train to Karlskrona. The Öresundstag takes about three and a half hours from Copenhagen to Karlskrona. There are ferry connections to Trelleborg and Malmö, from where Blekinge is easily accessible by car. There are flight connections to Copenhagen. Rental cars and train connections are available there.

Best Time to Visit: The summer months of June through August are the high season in Sweden. Spring and early fall also offer pleasant climates.

Attractions: Suitable for families is a visit to the Marine Museum in Karlskrona, which interactively engages children. It offers, among other things, ship models from the 18th century, the viewing and exploration of a real submarine, and an impressive collection of fascinating figureheads. Open: Daily 10 am to 5 pm (June to August), Tuesdays and Thursdays to Sundays 10 am to 4 pm and Wednesdays 10 am to 7 pm (September to May); entrance: free up to age 18; adults pay 150 kronor (about 13 euros).

Along the coast between Karlshamn and Ronneby lies the largest wildlife reserve in the Nordic region: the Eriksberg Wildlife and Nature Park. Safari tours can be booked. Opening hours: March 6 to August 28: Daily from 12 pm. Entrance Safari Park in season: adults 650 kronor, seniors 550 kronor, children aged four to 16 years 350 kronor, families (two adults with three children) 1300 kronor.

Various companies offer paddle tours or kayak rentals-like Paddelkompaniet north of Ronneby.

The trip was supported by Visit Sweden and Visit Blekinge. The editorial staff alone decides on the selection and orientation of the content.

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