Northern Iceland: Whales, Hot Springs, and Much More

For most people, encountering a whale in the wild is an incredible experience. This can happen in the North of Iceland! However, the North of the island has even more highlights to offer for your vacation. The travel reporter has the overview.

Just a few minutes on the boat and it's time for the first sighting: In the distance, a group of small porpoises can be seen. As quickly as they appear, these special creatures vanish again.

On the whale-watching boat, everyone looks around, searching for a tail fin or a spout on the water. Then it happens again: 'Whale at eleven o'clock,' says the captain, and everyone rushes to the railing. The boat gets closer to the two humpback whales, which repeatedly blow their spouts, calmly surface, and submerge again.

This extraordinary encounter is possible near the small village of Hauganes, with a population of about 120, located roughly 35 kilometers north of Akureyri. Each year in February, the whales come here to feed on the fish stocks in Eyjafjörður Fjord. These fishing grounds are also utilized by the small fishery that repurposes the whale-watching boats for cod fishing in the winter.

Owner Elvar Reykjalín refers to himself as the 'King of Salted Cod,' a specialty produced by the fishery. 'My great-great-grandfather founded the fishery 100 years ago,' says Reykjalín, who now has a granddaughter and can't wait for her to join the business-but she is only six months old and will need some time.

The fish is preserved by salting it for about five months-a process that has been a part of daily life in Iceland for generations to have food throughout the long and harsh winter.

However, it's not just cod that gets caught in the fishers' nets. Occasionally, sharks are caught, and they are processed into fermented Greenland shark, better known as Hákarl. Instead of discarding the dead sharks, the fishers use them to store food for the winter.

The Greenland shark is fermented for several months for a good reason: it contains substances that are dangerous to humans if consumed raw. Fermentation removes these toxins-but whether the taste is an improvement is something every brave person must decide for themselves during a tasting. Elvar Reykjalín knows exactly what's meant, and when asked whether tourists can try it here, he laughs and says: 'People would run out of the hall or throw up.'

Fishing is a daily routine for many families in Iceland and provides their livelihood. However, it's not the only natural advantage the locals make use of.

Hot springs are also part of this. In northern Iceland, steam columns rise in the landscape-visible demonstrations of geothermal energy. This power is so abundant that even streets and sidewalks are heated in Akureyri and Reykjavik during winter. It's not wizardry; the pipes are laid just below the surface and release heat.

The hot water, which comes straight from the earth, is also used by Icelanders for geothermal baths, where it is mixed with cold water due to its high temperature. This typically results in a pleasant bathing temperature of around 100°F. The official baths serve as social centers where locals gather to bathe, often with a beer or wine in hand.

Those who want to learn more about the area around Akureyri should contact Gísli Rúnar Víðisson. He lives with his wife, children, 30 horses, and 150 sheep on a farm near Akureyri. 'My family has lived here since 880 AD,' he says.

The Icelander has been working as a tour guide for over 20 years and started his own company this year, offering various tours. He has a wealth of information about the fjord's churches and knows the best spots to see the Northern Lights. His wife specializes in culinary delights, such as caramelized potatoes and lamb roasted for hours in the oven, along with fish fresh from the fjord.

The Víðisson family also capitalizes on Iceland's natural advantages for their livelihood and impresses tourists with unique nature combined with a relaxed and friendly lifestyle during their tours.

Getting to Iceland: Direct flights to Reykjavik or Keflavik, about 60 kilometers away, are available three times a week from Berlin and Frankfurt. From there, continue to northern Iceland with a rental car.

Whale Watching:Whalewatching Hauganes offers daily tours starting at EUR 76 per person. The trip lasts about one and a half hours. Snacks and hot drinks are available on board. Numerous other whale-watching tour providers can be found in Husavik, roughly 75 kilometers northeast of Akureyri.

Hot Springs:Forest Lagoon: Vaðlaskógur 605, Akureyri. Open daily from 10 AM to midnight. Admission: 5,990 Icelandic Krona, about EUR 43 per person.

Accommodations: There are numerous hotels in Akureyri, as well as along the Ring Road and the Arctic Coast Highway. To best view the Northern Lights, it's recommended to stay in a remote area without light pollution. The Hotel Natur is recommended for this. It is located on the other side of the fjord, about 15 kilometers north of Akureyri. The hotel features a tower with a glass dome where guests can enjoy the Northern Lights in comfort. A night in a double room costs around EUR 150.

In Husavik, there is a Fosshotel located in the center. Rooms start at EUR 274 per night.

This trip is supported by Visit Iceland and Visit North Iceland. The editorial team independently decides on the selection and orientation of the content.

Travel Reporter