Gdańsk: A Culinary Getaway with Goosebumps

It's spring. The sun is shining in a blue sky, and only a fresh breeze drifting from the Baltic Sea through the streets of Gdańsk's old town seems to cling a little to the past season.

Many Poles defy this with solid resilience: They are already wearing shorts, skirts, and blouses in the morning, preferring goosebumps over conceding one more day to winter.

In the historic district and along the canals, street musicians are already performing. They play, pluck, sing, and drum. Fountains gurgle, church bells ring. Store doors are thrown open, and umbrellas at cafés are unfurled: Gdańsk welcomes its visitors with open arms.

The former Hanseatic city, with about 450,000 residents, is one of Poland's most populous cities. With its world-famous shipyard, it surely attracts tourists yet retains a provincial character. This might be due to its compactness.

Most attractions cluster around the small center and are within walking distance. The Shakespeare Theatre, Golden Gate, Neptune Fountain, Crane, or the marketplace can all be visited in a morning stroll. Unless you're fond of amber shopping and stop to inspect the offerings of countless shops. Amulets, bracelets, rings, brooches, little animals, crucifixes: Baltic gold is available in every imaginable form.

The Museum of the Second World War is a deep dive. The exhibition space is three floors underground. Only at noon do a few rays of sunlight shine through the skylights; otherwise, the place relies on artificial lighting. Elaborate video installations, authentic replicas, and thousands of exhibits blur the line between viewer and what is viewed.

Visitors can also see some tears. Remembrance is painful, can be painful, must be painful. Or it shocks, grips, inspires. The latter happens at the Solidarity Center. In a modern, impressive, and detailed manner, the exhibition is dedicated to the civil movement that began the dismantling of the communist system in the 1970s. The museum was built where the worker protests began: at the Gdańsk Shipyard.

Up to 17,000 people once worked at the facility; today, it's about 3,000. The main task is no longer shipbuilding but repair and maintenance, even the 'Queen Mary' was serviced here. Huge ships lie in the canal like small cars on blocks, partially scaffolded, and can be closely inspected during a harbor tour.

Or from a distance, from the observation platform of the Gothic St. Mary's Church from 1343, one of the largest brick churches in the world. The climb up the tower may be sweaty and cost a few zlotys, but it's worth it to take a bird's-eye view of the birthplace of Günter Grass and Arthur Schopenhauer, which also hosts an abundance of cafes and restaurants.

Poles love to eat and drink-this is evident everywhere. There are wine and cocktail bars everywhere, as well as burger, pasta, and pizza joints. Young, dynamic chefs are also proving their mettle in the kitchen. One of them is Marcin Szlagowski.

For the 35-year-old from Filharmonia Restaurant, a hallmark of the local Kashubian cuisine is its sweetness. An element he skillfully incorporates into all his dishes. He presents smoked goose breast with berries and vinaigrette or serves provocative creations: ox testicles in smoked white chocolate sauce.

The Mercato Restaurant also offers a modern and imaginative setting, where Stawel Stawicki delights the city's gastronomes with dishes like butter-soft sturgeon, paired with celery cream and pork rib sauce. A six-course menu is available for about $50.

However, the heart of Polish cuisine beats at ground level: Pierogi, casseroles, soups are everywhere, and the delicious Polish beer, ice-cold from countless taps around the city, is highly recommended. A meal at the venerable Pod Łososiem, where the famous Danziger Goldwasser was invented at the end of the 16th century, is also a must during a Gdańsk trip.

Pope John Paul II dined here twice. Margaret Thatcher, Prince William, and Kate have also visited. The historic restaurant is operated in the third generation by Damian Robakowski, who exemplifies the politeness and charm of the Gdańsk population.

An absolute highlight is the excellent herring with onions and peppercorns, elevated with an ice-cold vodka side. Another classic is the salmon with gold leaf and lobster sauce. As we leave the restaurant, satisfied and full, the waiter holds the door for us. Did we enjoy it, he asks, smiling as if he already knows the answer. Not just here, we want to reply. Not just here.

At Pod Łososiem, experience a historic atmosphere: centuries ago, Danziger Goldwasser was invented here. In recent decades, politicians, nobility, and even Pope John Paul II visited the restaurant, enjoying meals prepared by the warm Robakowski family. Herring, salmon, and game dishes are on the menu-everything's well-prepared, but it's the entire experience that stands out.

Pod Łososiem | Address: Szeroka St. 52-54, Gdańsk

The ambiance at Filharmonia Restaurant might be a bit mismatched, but with Marcin Szlagowski's well-balanced creations, you won't notice. If you're adventurous, try the house specialty: ox testicles in smoked white chocolate sauce. The schnapps flavored with chili and lemon zest is excellent too.

Filharmonia Restaurant | Address: Ołowianka 1, 80-751d, Gdańsk

Mercato offers quality gourmet cuisine at relatively affordable prices: The five-course tasting menu costs about $50, with an additional $33 for wine pairings. An investment that proportionally translates into enjoyment.

Mercato Restaurant | Address: Targ Rybny 1, 80-838 Gdańsk

In the traditional eatery in the old town of Gdańsk, you can casually rest your elbows on the table until the first samples of good Kashubian regional cuisine are served, including potato casserole, pierogi, and sour flour soup.

Address:Kaszubska Marina/Długa 45/Gdańsk

In the small, cozy pub, end your day with a drink. The selection of craft beers is remarkable, and the ice-cold Polish draft beer is excellent.

Pub Elewator No. 19 | Address: Spichrzowa 19/80-750, Gdańsk