You can't think of Lisbon without thinking of the pasteis de Belem in Lisbon.
It would be a shame to visit Lisbon without ever tasting one of these sweets, because you won't regret it.
As soon as you sink your teeth into a pastel (pasteis are plural), you'll know why.
Have you ever been to Portugal?
Normally, when someone answers yes, our next question is usually...
What is your favourite Portuguese speciality?
Many visitors prefer a good classic cataplana (a Portuguese seafood stew), a caldo verde soup and the classic sautéed salt cod with eggs and potatoes, also known as bacalhao a bras...
But as soon as you taste the famous succulent flank steak, you'll answer pastéis de Belém.
Where can you find authentic Belém pasteis in Lisbon?
The parish of Belém (Portuguese abbreviation for Betléhem) is located west of Lisbon city centre, near the Tagus river.
Take tram 15 to Belém (there is no metro stop there) and get off at Belém-Jerónimos.
The Jerónimos Monastery a little further on (now home to the Maritime Museum and the National Museum of Archaeology) is the beating heart, another reason why this place is worth a visit.
Pastéis de Belém: the famous Portuguese egg tart
It was between 1700 and 1800 that the monks of this monastery created the pastéis de Belém.
Later, the recipe was patented. The monastery was closed in 1833, but the production of the egg tarts was transferred a little further to the Casa Pastéis de Belém, where you can still find it today.
People also call Belém pastel "pastel de Nata", which literally means "cream pastry" in Portuguese. It looks a lot like a flan or an egg cream pie. But it has that little extra something that makes even the most demanding of gourmets fall for it!
Pastry
The pastry is really so crispy. How delicate!
How buttery and yet so flaky!
It is similar to phyllo pastry.
By the way, we assume that the baking time is perfectly timed as you will incinerate this type of pastry if you leave it in the oven for another 30 seconds.
Egg cream
And then you have the creamiest egg custard ever.
It's got egg yolks, sugar and cream in it for sure. And you can smell a bit of salt and vanilla too. Others think there is some kind of starch (corn or potato), which we doubt.
But the true composition and relationship between these main ingredients of pastéis de Belém, we will never know. It is a well-guarded secret recipe that only a handful of people know.
Recipe for Pasteis de Belém
The monks passed the recipe on to the owner of a local bakery who started making the pies and selling them in his shop. This shop still exists today and has been run by the same family for almost 200 years.
Only one family has the recipe for the pastéis de Belém and only 3 members of that family know it by heart.
The recipe is memorised rather than written down to prevent it from being found or stolen.
Secret
Another funny thing is that these people who know the secret can never travel together, let alone meet each other in case there is an accident: a plane crash, a car crash, a bomb attack or even a building collapse...
Great!
The baker's shop in Belém
Let's go back to the shop first.
You can sit inside (quite noisy though) and devour your pastéis de Belém sprinkled with cinnamon and icing sugar and accompanied by a cup of coffee.
You can also go to the park in front of the establishment, sit on a bench and enjoy this creamy treat in the shade.
But don't wait too long: eat your pastéis de Belém preferably warm... Because egg tarts are best when they are fresh, for an optimal experience in terms of flavour and crunch.
And you can be sure that the ones you buy are fresh.
The shop sells around 25,000 of these pasteis de Belem a day, which means the ovens are always running.
In high season, the bakery can even bake up to 50,000 pastries a day!
Address: Pastéis de Belém, Rua Belém 84-92, 1300-085 Lisboa
Pastéis de Belém: the recipe
Making pastry from scratch for Belém pastels is a time-consuming and exhausting job.
You can try making puff pastry and frankly, you have to be brave to make it more than once.
That's why we opt for a much easier or less authentic way to make pastels: with store-bought puff pastry.
Are you still up for a pastry experiment?
Pastry experience
Then take a look at this recipe: it's one of the best written recipes on how to make the dough for these pasteis de Belem.
Puff pastry at the bottom.
Custard filling.
The ingredients are fairly simple: milk, sugar, egg yolks, vanilla bean, cinnamon stick and lemon peel.
What we find useful in this recipe is the idea of putting two trays in the hot oven to imitate a baker's oven.
The baker's oven
And we quote:
"If you have a pizza stone, place it on the top shelf of the oven, or use a baking tray. Place a second pizza stone, or another baking tray, on the middle shelf of the oven. Let them both get very hot. This is the best way to replicate the intense heat of bakery ovens, and will allow the pies to bake quickly with a crisp base and (hopefully) caramelise on top. Leave just enough space between the stones or trays for the tarts."
The recipe
Preparation time: 1 h 15 min
Cooking time: 30 min
Servings: 12
Ingredients
- 14 oz puff pastry (400 g), ready to roll out
- 125 g powdered sugar (4.5 oz)
- ⅓ cup water (80 ml)
- 1 ¼ cups of whole milk (300 ml)
- 1 small vanilla bean, sliced
- ½ small cinnamon stick
- Zest of ½ small fresh lemon
- 6 egg yolks
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Instructions
1. Grease a 12-hole muffin tin with butter. Then put it in the fridge.
2. Preheat your oven, preferably to about 527°F (275°C).
3. Add the milk, water, cinnamon stick, vanilla bean, sugar and lemon zest to a saucepan over medium heat. Simmer the milk until the sugar has dissolved. Then remove the pan from the heat. Leave the ingredients to infuse for 5 minutes.
4. Discard the zest, vanilla and cinnamon.
5. Add the egg yolks to a large bowl and whisk until pale and creamy.
6. Then add a tablespoon of hot milk to the egg yolks (make sure it is not scalding) and whisk vigorously. Continue to add two more tablespoons of milk separately and whisk between each. Then slowly add the remaining hot milk to the bowl. Continue beating the eggs.
7. Now add the custard mixture to a clean saucepan and place it on a very low heat. Keep stirring gently but constantly with a spatula. Do not allow the custard to burn.
8. Be patient. The custard needs a few minutes to thicken. Do not turn up the heat to speed up the process, as it may split. As soon as the custard has reached the consistency of double cream, remove it from the heat and cover the surface with cling film.
9. Cut the puff pastry sheet into 12 discs and place them in the buttered muffin tin. Spread the custard over the pastry base.
10. Carefully place the tray in the hot oven. Bake the pastéis for about 10-14 minutes until the custard is caramelised on top.
11. Then remove the tarts. Sprinkle with icing sugar and cinnamon. Serve warm.
Where to find other pasteis de nata in Lisbon?
Pastelaria Aloma - The best pastel de nata in Lisbon and in the world
Did you know that there is a competition in Lisbon for the best pastel de nata? The competition is very serious and its jury is made up of, among others, a pastry chef, a historian of Portuguese pastry and an oenologist. The appearance, crispness of the pastry, freshness, creaminess and flavour of the pasteis de nata are evaluated.
Pastelaria Aloma won the competition in 2012, 2013 and 2015. Located in the Campo de Ourique district, the shop opened in 1943 and occupies a small 30m2 room. It has an international reputation, with even the New York Times and CNN talking about the best pastel de nata in Lisbon and the world.
85% of the clientele is from Lisbon as no tourist guidebook mentions this pastry yet. So don't hesitate to go to Pastelaria Aloma because it is still a well-kept secret. For the moment...
Price: € 0,95 per nata
Historical address (the first shop in the Campo de Ourique district): rua Francisco Metrass 67, Lisboa
Opening hours: every day from 8am to 7pm (closed on 25 and 26 December and 1 January).
Other addresses where you can find pasteis d'Aloma:
- Pastelaria Bijou do Calhariz: Largo do Calhariz 2, Lisboa
- Aloma counter in the Amoreiras shopping centre: avenida Eng. Duarte Pacheco, Lisbon
- Aloma counter in El Corte Inglês shopping centre: avenida António Augusto de Aguiar 31, Lisbon
- Aloma counter at Lisbon Airport: Alameda das Comunidades Portuguesas
Website: http://www.aloma.pt/
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Pastelaria.Aloma
Manteigaria - Better than pastéis de Belém?
This shop reopened in July 2014. Located behind a beautiful Art Deco façade of a 1900 building, the building is the former headquarters of a Portuguese butter brand.
The interior of the pastelaria is made of marble, as it was back in the day, and a tiny counter allows you to order your pastéis de nata. The pastry chef's work surface is visible to all and is often a tourist attraction.
Aristides, the owner, makes no secret of the fact that he wants to do better than the famous pasteis of Belém. The secret of Manteigaria pasteis is that they are made with butter imported from France, a little cinnamon, lemon peel, homemade sugar and no preservatives.
The shop already sells 4,000 pasteis de nata a day and is about to open a shop in Madrid and another in London. There is also a Manteigaria counter at Time Out Market.
The price: €1 per pasteis nata
Addresses: rua do Loreto 2, Chiado
Time Out Market - Mercado da Ribeira, Avenida 24 de Julho 49, Lisbon
Opening hours of the shop in rua do Loreto: every day from 8am to midnight.
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/manteigariacamoes/
Pastelaria Alcoa - The traditional reference in Alcobaça
Pastelaria Alcoa opened its doors in Lisbon's Chiado district in February 2017. But this house has existed since 1957 in the town of Alcobaça, following the traditional recipes of the religious people of this town.
Paula Alves has been the boss of the brand since 1983. The pastéis de nata are produced daily on site according to the traditional recipe inherited from the monastery of Alcobaça. Everything is respected point by point: the cooking times, the quantities of sugar and the use of copper utensils, just as it was over 500 years ago.
Hot pastéis de nata are prepared almost every hour. Other traditional pastries are prepared in Alcobaça and transported to Lisbon every day.
Price: €1.10 per nata
Address: rua Garrett 37, Lisboa
Opening hours: daily from 9am to 10pm
Website: http://pastelaria-alcoa.com/
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pastelariaalcoa/
Fabrica da Nata - The shop that's taking over the historic centre
It's hard not to notice the two Fábrica da Nata shops in the centre of Lisbon. Opened in March 2016, the first shop is located on Praça dos Restauradores. The second, which opened in April 2017, is located on Rua Augusta, the main pedestrian and shopping street in central Lisbon.
Here, as at the aforementioned Manteigaria Camões, the pasteis de nata are made in full view of the customers. These pastries have quickly gained an excellent reputation among tourists and Lisboans themselves. The know-how is definitely there.
You can put together a snack menu with a pastel de nata as a dessert and a sandwich, salted doughnuts or a quiche.
The price: €1 per nata, €6 per box of 6 / €2.20 per nata with a glass of port or ginjinha (Portuguese cherry liqueur)
Addresses:
Praça dos Restauradores 62/68, Lisboa.
Rua Augusta 275 A, Lisboa
Opening hours: daily from 8am to 11pm
Website: https://www.fabricadanata.com/fabricadanata-1
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/fabricadanata/
Balcão do Marquês - The best natas near Marquês De Pombal Square
Balcão do Marquês was ranked number 3 in the 2015 ranking of the best nata in Lisbon.
Located near Marquês de Pombal Square, the snack bar is always very popular as it is very close to one of the nerve centres of the Portuguese capital.
You can stay there for breakfast if you stay in the area or even for lunch. A real old-fashioned Portuguese snack bar that is worth a visit.
Price: €1 per nata
Address: Avenida Duque de Loulé 113-119, Lisboa
Nearest metro station: Marquês de Pombal station - yellow or blue line.
Opening hours: 7am-9pm Monday to Friday / 7am-3pm Saturday.
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Balcão-do-Marquês-247195318665714/
Nata Lisboa - "The world needs nata
In 2011, advertising executive José Carlos Campos decided to create his own brand of pasteis de nata and sell them worldwide.
The company's slogan is "The world needs nata" and was to be international from the start. The first shop opened in the Chiado district and sells about 400 natas a day.
Currently, Nata Lisboa has 29 franchise shops worldwide, in cities such as Paris and Abu Dhabi.
Many more shops will open in the coming months. At Nata Lisboa it is also possible to have lunch and even buy Lisbon-themed design items.
Price: €1.10 per nata
Addresses and opening hours:
Rua da Prata 78, Lisboa
Monday to Friday from 08:00 to 19:00
Saturday and Sunday from 9:00 to 19:00
Rua de Santa Cruz do Castelo 5-11, Lisbon
Monday to Sunday from 9am to 9pm
Website: http://natalisboa.com/index.php/en/
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/NATALisboaPORTUGAL/
The Confeitaria Nacional - the reference in the historic centre
Opened in 1829, this confeitaria (pastry shop) is the oldest in Lisbon. The cake it sells the most is, of course, the pastel de nata: about 1,000 a day.
It is a pastry shop that also offers a wide range of cakes and petits fours, inspired by the travels of its illustrious founder, Balthazar Castanheiro, for example. The Portuguese tradition is mixed with the inspiration of French and Spanish pastries.
Price: €1.15 per nata at the counter, €6.60 per box of 6.
Address: Praça da Figueira 18B, Lisbon
Opening hours: daily from 8am to 8pm
Website: http://www.confeitarianacional.com/uk/#index.html
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ConfeitariaNacional
Nata de Lisboa - The latest addition to Lisbon's city centre
Nata de Lisboa is the newest shop in this selection, opening in September 2018. Located on Lisbon's most famous pedestrian street, Rua Augusta, it offers very good pastéis de nata, made in the traditional way right before your eyes.
The shop has a few tables inside and others on the street where you can also have a coffee, cappuccino, water or juice.
Price: €1 per nata
Address: rua Augusta 222, Lisboa
Nearest Metro station: Baixa-Chiado (blue or green line) or Rossio (green line)
Opening hours: daily from 12pm to 11pm.
A Padaria Portugu- The brand that's on the rise...
A Padaria Portuguesa is one of the most successful bakeries in Portugal in recent years. It is one of the cheapest and best places to eat in Lisbon.
In addition to a wide variety of delicious breads (30 different recipes), the shop also offers cakes, croissants and sandwiches. And of course, the inevitable pastel de nata, of excellent quality.
It is also an ideal place to have breakfast.
Addresses: Numerous outlets in all parts of Lisbon, especially the historic and commercial areas.
Shops also in towns near Lisbon. The list of shops is here >>> http://www.apadariaportuguesa.pt/
Opening hours: varies according to the shop
Website: http://www.apadariaportuguesa.pt/
Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/apadariaportuguesa
Order Pastéis de Belém online
In Lisbon
If you live in Lisbon, you can have Pastéis de Belém delivered to your home thanks to Glovo. Glovo is an app similar to Uber Eats, which allows you to order from any restaurant and have it delivered to your home.
To avoid the crowds, many people now use Glovo and have natas delivered to their homes.
Outside Lisbon
If you don't live in Lisbon, you can still have Pastéis de Belém delivered to your door, but this will obviously take longer than 30 minutes.
DeliPortugal can deliver Pastéis de Belém to Portugal and Spain, and they are usually delivered within 24-36 hours of dispatch. Deliveries to Madeira and the Azores, on the other hand, can take 5-6 working days.
It doesn't seem that you can get Pastéis de nata outside of Portugal and, even if you could, they would probably be incredibly stale by the time you got them.
Alternatively, you can learn how to make pastéis de nata yourself. In Lisbon and Porto, you'll find many cooking schools that offer courses. Outside Portugal, you'll need to get a cookbook or find a recipe online.
FAQ
Can you freeze Pastéis de Belém?
Yes and no.... mostly no. You can freeze them in an airtight container or in freezer bags for up to 3 months, but they do not thaw well. Like most dairy products, the fats and water thaw at different rates, leaving you with a soggy pastry crust and a custard that has split. So you can freeze them if you have more than you can eat, but be aware that the texture won't be nearly as good as a fresh cake.
How long do Pastéis de Belém keep?
Pasteis de Nata are best eaten warm (or cold) on the day they are baked. However, they can be kept at room temperature in an airtight container for up to two days.
How to serve Pastéis de Belém?
These pastries are usually served with a little powdered sugar, cinnamon or both. Some bakeries do not serve either. They are best eaten warm a few hours after baking, when the pastry is crisp and the custard is delicately smooth and creamy.
