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Fields and forests, coasts and islands, fishing villages and university towns: Skåne caters to many preferences. You can explore the nature of Sweden's southernmost province with hiking boots or a bicycle.
Rolling fields with occasional glimpses of the sea, only occasionally growing rougher and more forested: that's Skåne. Swedes sometimes refer to the peninsula as their 'breadbasket' because its clay-rich soils are very fertile and nearly a third of Sweden's agricultural products are grown here. Selma Lagerlöf already described this colorful 'patchwork quilt,' the home of her novel character Nils Holgersson, who sets out with the wild geese in a journey across Skåne.
Whether hiking or cycling, the nature in Skåne is too beautiful to stay only in the cities. In both summer and winter. bettercities.net Leonie lived there and shares her tips for day trips into nature:
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SwedenKullaberg: Hiking from Arild to Mölle
'Welcome to the Kingdom of Ladonia' - on the Kullaberg Peninsula in northwest Skåne, we leave the Skåneleden for a quick detour. Into another world. On the steep slopes of the Baltic coast, Danish artist Lars Vilks started building a city out of driftwood 27 years ago. Nimis is the name of the construction, with its twisty corridors and leaning towers, which hikers may enter - but at their own risk.
The start of this section of the Skåneleden hiking trail at Arild is fabulous. I begin the hike on a cold November morning with my roommate Johanna, a Swede. The air is piercingly clear, the sky blue. At Arild, only we and two other hikers get off the bus. Small wooden houses, painted in all pastel colors, stand here. Beyond, the sea rests.
Shortly after we leave the village, the first hills begin. The Skåneleden, the 'Path of Skåne,' stretches over 1,000 kilometers across the province. Five sections lead through the inland or along the coast. The path from Arild to Mölle is one of the most beautiful sections for me. Again and again, we hike with a sea view or reach vantage points from which we can overlook the peninsula for miles.
Skåne holds its charm in every season. Naturally, it is very cold in winter, as during our November hike. However, we are almost alone on the paths. And Johanna has brought warm 'Nypponsoppa,' rosehip soup, in her thermos. This treat, often taken on outings by Swedish kindergarteners, keeps us warm during breaks.
At the Kullens Lighthouse, we reach the westernmost tip of the Kullaberg Peninsula. From here, it is not far to Mölle. We scramble along narrow paths on the clifftops, the sun sets early behind the sea, coloring the white houses of the seaside resort, including the posh Grand Hotel, a rosy-orange hue. At Krukmakeri, directly opposite the bus station, we wait for the next bus back to Helsingborg with hot tea.
Route: 17.3 kilometers | Duration: about six hours | Difficulty: Medium
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SkåneledenHiking from Helsingborg to Landskrona
The weather is perfect for hiking at the end of April: The air is slowly warming, the sun is shining, but we don't have to sweat. Initially, the Skåneleden leads inland, through the Ramlösa Brunnspark, an old spa facility with charming, old houses, and then through the Råå Valley back towards the coast. We reach it at Råå, the first of many picturesque fishing villages on this stage.
Next come Fortuna Strand and Ålabodarna. Here, life still seems incapable of plotting anything malicious. Family men repair small boats with their sons, in the gardens right by the Öresund locals are playing soccer, neighbors chat over the garden fence. The sea air, the tranquility, the glimmer of the water, everything simply seems to create happiness. We are just brief players in this Swedish picture-book idyll, but it rubs off on us.
Even though the route demands our full leg strength. Just because the path always leads along the sea does not mean that it is not hilly here as well. But when we arrive in Landskrona, despite burning thighs, we still manage a brief visit to the Citadel, Landskrona's castle.
Route: 29 kilometers | Duration: about 6 hours | Difficulty: Medium
Ven: Cycling around the island
The island of Ven is perfect for families or nature lovers who prefer a more leisurely pace. The ferry from Landskrona operates year-round, and in summer months, a boat also departs from Råå to the island. The trip is especially worthwhile in May when the rapeseed blooms and Ven transforms into a yellow blossoming oasis.
The ferry from Landskrona docks at Bäckfiken. From there, we have to walk up the hill to reach the island's bike rental. We then cycle around the island, have a picnic with a view of Denmark, and enjoy coffee at the cafe near the Tycho Brahe Museum, dedicated to the work of the 16th-century Swedish astrologer.
The island tour can be completed in an hour and a half to two hours at a relaxed pace, so even with a three to four-hour stay, there is still enough time for rest and relaxation. There is also a youth hostel located directly by the sea at the ferry terminal.
Route: 12 kilometers | Duration: About 1.5 hours | Difficulty: Easy | Ferry Price: about 16 euros for a round trip, families with up to three children under 16 about 32 euros for a round trip | Bike Price: around 10 euros for an adult for one day
Hiking in Söderåsen National Park
If you prefer the woods, visit the Söderåsen National Park northeast of Helsingborg near Skäralid. It's best to visit in the fall. Then the leaves turn colorful, and from the high hills, you can gaze over the red-golden valley of Skäralidsdalen.
In Söderåsen, you'll find various routes of different lengths and difficulties. The Skåneleden trail also passes through the park. There are three simple wooden huts with running water, a grill area, and toilets where you can spend the night. The Dahlbergs Hut, for example, is open year-round and can accommodate up to 30 people. Perfect if you're traveling with a large group and want to hike the park for two days.
But shorter circular tours are also possible, from just under one kilometer to about eight kilometers, for example, starting from Skäralid.
Popular stops on the hike include Lake Odensjön in Nackarpsdalen and the viewpoints Kopparhatten, Hjortsprånget, and Lierna.
Length: 17 kilometers (Skåneleden from Klåveröd to Jällabjär) | Circular tours: From 900 meters | Difficulty: Easy to Medium
Hiking in Stenshuvud National Park
Heading from western Skåne to the east coast takes us to the Österlen region and Stenshuvud National Park. In spring, wood anemones bloom among the birches, and in some sections, wooden planks lead through the forest. The landscape and views remind me a lot of Kullaberg. However, in Stenshuvud National Park, we also occasionally encounter long sandy beaches.
The name Stenshuvud comes from the mountain of the same name, which with its highest peak towers nearly 100 meters over the national park. Five trails run through the park, from 500 meters to four kilometers long. Here, too, you can follow the orange signs for the Skåneleden, for example, from Simrishamn in the south to Kivik in the north.
While in Kivik, be sure to visit Kivik's Musteri. The Österlen region is a growing area for cider, more specifically for the apples from which apple wine is made. After all that legwork, it's time to say: Cheers!
Length: 21 kilometers (Skåneleden from Simrishamn to Kivik) | Circular tours: From 500 meters | Difficulty: Easy to Medium