On These Danish Islands, You'll Feel Like You're in the Mediterranean

Have you ever heard of the Ertholmene Islands? Serenity and tranquility, Mediterranean flora, and historical sites on this relaxed archipelago in the Baltic Sea create a Mediterranean feel-without the oppressive heat.

Former prisons and Mediterranean plants, a very laid-back atmosphere, and a particularly mild climate greet visitors to Denmark's Ertholmene Islands. Like most island paradises, they can only be reached by ferry from other islands. The Ertholmene Islands, Danish for Ertholmene, are no exception.

In the summer, the two inhabited isles of Christiansø and Frederiksø are visited daily by ferries. The travel reporter introduces what awaits you on the archipelago, reminiscent of typical Mediterranean islands.

The Ertholmene archipelago is Denmark's easternmost point and consists of the islands Christiansø and Frederiksø, as well as the bird sanctuary Græsholmen and several larger and smaller rocks. The islands are located about 11 miles northeast of Bornholm and largely consist of granite that retains a lot of heat in the summer months-resulting in a mild climate from summer into late autumn.

It is drier and sunnier here than in the rest of Denmark, and the vegetation has a particularly Mediterranean appeal. Figs and grapes can grow here, along with Mediterranean plants such as salsify, wallflowers, or spurge. They cannot be picked as all plants on the islands are under nature protection.

Together, the two islands of Christiansø and Frederiksø are about 64 acres, equivalent to about 26 large soccer fields. The 98-foot gap between the two islets is bridged by a bridge. And the approximately 100 residents of the Ertholmene Islands, who celebrate a particularly relaxed lifestyle, welcome almost 50,000 visitors in the summer months each year, mostly for day trips from Bornholm by ferry.

Traveling in otherwise dog-friendly Denmark, you should know that, except for leashed guide dogs, no dogs are allowed on the Ertholmene Islands due to several open drinking water reservoirs.

Christiansø is the larger inhabited Ertholmene Island at 54 acres and is a fortress island. The well-preserved and never-conquered sea fortress of Christiansø was built in 1684, was operational until 1855, and is considered the first sea fortress in Scandinavia.

The old cannons are still here and you can enjoy the view of the sea from the bastion walls. When the fortress was decommissioned, it, along with all other island structures of the archipelago, was placed under monument protection, and the Ertholmene Islands are still managed by the Ministry of Defense today.

As a result, no municipal taxes are paid on the Ertholmene Islands, and the tax rate is much lower than in the rest of Denmark. This helped counteract the aging population. Young families have settled on the Ertholmene Islands, and in the tiny island school, about twelve students are taught up to the seventh grade. The whole kingdom's reading competition has even been won here.

Christiansø's features also include a small island shop, idyllic gardens, and historical houses, where nothing can be altered due to monument protection regulations. Those staying longer than day-trippers can enjoy the sunset with a cool drink from the terrace of the island inn Kro, hopefully accompanied by some music, as locals like to gather for musical evenings.

A small pedestrian bridge connects Frederiksø with its sister island Christiansø. No more than ten people should be on the bridge at the same time, according to a small sign at the crossing. Just a few steps, and you reach the island of Frederiksø, measuring only 1,444 feet in length and 525 feet in width. The highest point of the island rises 26 feet above sea level.

Frederiksø's historical buildings include the Lille Tårn, or Little Tower, a conical stone watchtower from 1687. Today, this tower houses a military and local history museum, and on the first floor, you can see what the Ertholmene Islands looked like in 1850.

Another historical attraction on Frederiksø is the former prison Ballonen. It was used as a state prison for political prisoners, and escape from this remote place was considered impossible. The most notable inmate was theologian and philosopher Jacob Jacobsen Dampe, who was imprisoned here from 1826 to 1841 after attempting to overthrow the Danish King forcefully. His cell can be visited.

Nature lovers and bird photography enthusiasts will also enjoy Frederiksø, possibly capturing a rare sight. The bird island Græsholm lies right off Frederiksø, and with luck, you might take pictures of the black-and-white razorbill, which resembles a penguin.

In the summer, excursion boats travel daily from Bornholm's towns of Svaneke, Gudhjem, and Allinge to the Ertholmene Islands. Typically, the Ertholmene Islands are explored on a guided three-hour tour, followed by a ferry return trip. However, you can also stay overnight on the Ertholmene Islands. About 30 tents can fit on the camping site on Christiansø, and the Island Inn: Kro & Gæstgiveri offers six double rooms.

You can have an adventurous overnight stay in the mentioned state prison Ballonen on Frederiksø, where five former cells are available for accommodation. Those arriving by their own boat will find 70 berths in the natural harbor.

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