Vacation in China: What Travelers Can Discover Along the Grand Canal

From the lookout post towards the north, there is a view of the Yan Mountain range with its rugged limestone and basalt cliffs and green hills heading towards Inner Mongolia. Only a Mao tribute inscription carved into the mountain reminds visitors that the time of emperors has passed.

The Great Wall of China may be the most famous and impressive structure in Chinese history - but it is not the oldest, most important, or largest. Because about 2,400 years ago, the work began on the longest man-made waterway: the Grand Canal.

This is a journey along the 1,800-kilometer-long waterway. It leads not only from Beijing in the north to southern China-what the locals refer to as noodle to rice China. It travels through a fascinating, complex, and even contradictory giant empire. A country where communism, Confucianism, and relentless productivity converge.

The journey begins at the wall section at Mutianyu, where after what feels like an eternity, Beijing's city limits give way to nature. It ends at the mouth of the Huangpu River into the Yangtze just before the East China Sea, where Shanghai lies.

However, the journey actually begins at a train station. Although parts of the Grand Canal are still navigable today, taking the train is much faster. Much faster: the high-speed train is supposed to take just over six hours for the 1,200 kilometers from Beijing to the next giant metropolis-supposedly. Will it really manage this?

After initial experiences with Beijing's world-famous attractions, travelers learn about the Chinese form of sightseeing: It's a continuous, yet considerate winding along the pre-set paths in a collective. For example, along the magnificent park promenade of the Summer Palace.

Especially noticeable are the mostly young Chinese people who wear traditional costumes and style their hair into elaborate hairstyles. Once dressed up, they photograph themselves in the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven, and many other attractions. To see and be seen-the ubiquitous surveillance cameras are not included here. 'We always have to be in the photos,' says tour guide He Chengjang about the locals. 'That's the difference compared to you Germans.'

Back at the train station, another difference to Germany is noticeable: the train heading south not only departs on time, but it actually covers the route to Hangzhou in just over six hours. The top speed is 320 kilometers per hour. During the journey, staff distribute complimentary drinks and snacks.

For those who need more, they can get a beer (1 Euro) or fresh fruit (1 Euro) in the onboard bistro while watching the landscape become increasingly tropical as massive, rapidly constructed housing complexes rush past. The route is as straight as if drawn with a string. This is also part of China's uncompromising nature: when the state builds, people and nature must make way.

The journey continues on water. With Hangzhou's skyline on one side and wooded hills on the other in the background, a gigantic, golden dragon boat cruises over West Lake. It looks like it's about to swallow the small tourist gondolas.

On his travels, Hangzhou was one of Marco Polo's favorite cities. He raved about the city, its nature, and palaces. He was still right 800 years later, even though the population has grown to about 12.5 million. Hangzhou is enormous, but it doesn't feel that way-mainly because of West Lake.

According to legend, the lake was formed when a pearl fell to Earth, fought over by a dragon and a phoenix. In reality, it is also a man-made mega-project: excavated in the eighth century, more than three kilometers long and nearly as wide. It has been replicated 36 times in China and several times in Japan.

Something unique that can only be found around Hangzhou cannot be easily imitated. In the outdoor area of the Changguantang Tea House, operator Jin Weiqiang pours hot water over the dragon flowers. While the tea steeps, a brook flows past outside. Due to the climate and soil, the Dragon Well plant only grows here in the region, says Jin. The drink is mild and fresh, and the small town of Meijawu is a quiet oasis amid the nearby city hustle.

In the evening, Hangzhou's night market is a must-see: street stalls offer noodle soups, tofu stews, and meat skewers. Right next door, mostly women offer pedicures. Just a meter away, shells, snails, and axolotls are for sale in small water containers.

If all that feels too hectic, the West Lake promenade is a better choice. Here, couples, families, and friends sit and watch the massive dragon boats-now illuminated-circle the lake in the dark. Occasionally, a karaoke singer strolls by, whose microphone is also a speaker, singing a Chinese song and dancing on.

Just a side street away is a record store that sells music by Amy Winehouse, The Doors, and other Western artists. 'Are you journalists?' asks owner Youcai Zhongci, who lived in Canada for a long time. 'What are you doing here? You need to go where the real Chinese are.'

And where are they? Zhongci zooms in on the city outskirts using the Chinese version of Google Maps. At the same time, a police car slowly drives past the record shop. A few visitors drinking beer in front of the shop begin to howl like wolves at the sight. Perhaps this offers a glimpse into the 'real' China.

Artfully designed gardens or man-made waterways and lakes: Even Marco Polo witnessed the Chinese determination and creativity during his travels at the end of the 13th century. This also led him along the Grand Canal to Suzhou. The waterway here has countless artificial tributaries that still weave through the city of 13 million people.

The Italian explorer was reminded of his homeland by the city: he called it the 'Venice of China'. The locals don't need this comparison, as Suzhou is known as the city of gardens.

There's the Garden of the Humble Administrator, considered the most beautiful in the country: in the 16th-century complex, you find the Hall of Distant Fragrance. From here, there are views of pavilions, green spaces, and bridges. Surrounded by numerous domestic tourists, it's a walk along narrow paths past ponds and pagodas.

The fact that the complex is full of locals is explained by tour guide He: '20 years ago, the gardens were almost empty. The domestic tourism scene shows that people today have more money.' The Yangtze Delta around Hangzhou, Suzhou, and Shanghai is the wealthiest area in China.

The Grand Canal no longer touches Shanghai itself. The once insignificant fishing village just before the East China Sea was too unimportant during the excavation. It gained significance only in the mid-19th century, when the British flooded the country with opium and eventually-like other colonial powers-forced trade concessions. Today, about 25 million people live here. Shanghai is a global financial center and one of the most expensive cities in the world.

In a small park, Tai-Chi master Huong Lixiong (63) practices traditional shadow boxing in the shadow of skyscrapers. Under bamboo trees, he teaches his students slow, gentle movements that are anything but easy to reproduce. 'With gentleness, you move what is hard,' Huong summarizes meaningfully. The goal of Tai-Chi: harmony.

Finding harmony amid an opulent megacity overflowing with endless temptations sounds paradoxical. But many impressions China offers are like this. In the end, isn't the interplay of tradition and ultramodernity, of communism and Confucianism, a form of harmony?

Travel: Direct flights to Beijing are available daily from New York City and Los Angeles-for example, with Air China. Connections with layovers are available from other US airports.

Entry: As of now, American citizens can travel visa-free to China for 15 days until the end of 2025. For longer stays, a visa for the purpose of the visit should be applied for before departure at the Embassy.

Tour Operators: Various travel agencies offer China tours in their programs-such as Gebeco, SKR, Ikarus Tours, and Diamir Adventure Travel. Gebeco offers 13 different China trips, including six adventure tours, three study tours, and four private trips. The 14-day adventure tour 'Spectacular Highlights of China' from Beijing to Shanghai with Yangtze Cruise is available from $3,095 including flights.

Additional Information: Google and social networks like Instagram, Facebook, and WhatsApp are blocked in China. It's worth using the Chinese equivalents for travel: Baidu and Baidu Maps as search and navigation tools, WeChat as a chat program, and Alipay as an online payment system. A translation app can also be helpful, as English or German isn't spoken everywhere.

The trip was supported by Gebeco. The editorial team solely decides on the selection and direction of the content.

Looking for more inspiration?Find tips for all top travel destinations at the travel bettercities.net.

A fascinating example is the water town of Wuzhen. It is located a bit east of Hangzhou and is both a leisure and theme park, open-air museum, and a walled hotel complex. Each year, Chinese President Xi Jinping invites the global online elite here for the so-called World Internet Conference.

Wuzhen is a place that leaves an impression: picturesque canals snug under bridges and past fishermen's houses that can be explored by boat and along cobblestone alleys. Or, visitors can be chauffeured through the area via golf carts, conveniently reaching the numerous restaurants, luxury hotels, or bars. Is it authentic? No. Does a visit help understand 'history made in China'? Absolutely.