We didn't know about Canggu until our trip to Bali in 2017. And yet, we'd already explored a lot of Bali. We've even done the whole tour and we're fans. Until then, we'd even got into the habit of staying in Hotels in Seminyak (Bali) at all-balihotels.net at the start and end of our road trip for its atmosphere and also its convenient access to and from Denpasar international airport.
On our last trip to the Island of the Gods, we wanted a change. We drove 10-15 minutes further north and came across Canggu, or the authentic Bali of the south coast. That's what they said at the time. We found ourselves in the Seminyak of even 10 years ago, when the buildings had not yet overtaken the rice paddies that shaped the landscape.
Since then, Canggu has literally been transformed in just a few years. The number of good places to eat, work out in the gym, go out in the evening and private villas to sleep in has multiplied. Canggu has become THE PLACE TO BE... as long as you like the party atmosphere and are also part of the 'have you seen me' crowd. The cult of appearance is now the order of the day. We're writing this update in December 2022, although we've decided to live in Canggu since 2020. Fortunately, our little alleyway has remained very quiet, away from the crowds, and yet we are right in the heart of the Canggu that everyone dreams of coming to discover.
During the pandemic, the atmosphere was very calm. But since then the tourists have returned, and returned they have. Traffic is not managed and you can spend 1 hour in traffic jams to get to Seminyak, for example. Despite this, Canggu remains Bali's magnet and the ideal stopover at the beginning or end of a trip for travellers who are not looking for the authenticity of the Island of the Gods.
The airport is easily accessible by taxi from this bay. It's a great alternative to the even more crowded and noisy beaches of Kuta, Legian and Seminyak, which are still human even though they are densely populated.
Indonesia, our favourite playground in the world.
During our first 2-month trip to the Indonesian archipelago in 2011, during which we travelled around Bali and Lombok on scooters, a special bond immediately connected us to this exotic destination and its people,
The following time in 2013, it was after crossing Flores and a cruise from Flores to Lombok via the island of Komodo, that we stayed in Bali again,
3rd trip in 2015 with a trip to the island of Sulawesi, followed by the discovery of other regions of the Island of the Gods,
4th trip to Bali in 2017 with Bali and exploration of the volcanoes of Java,
5th trip in 2019 reserved for the Isle of Gods and other neighbouring islets,
Some of the travellers we've met on our adventures in Indonesia have praised the charms of Canggu. We wanted to check it out for ourselves and share it with you.
We spend a few days in Canggu exploring the surrounding area and the coast. We also tried out quite a few restaurants. After the almost daily rice that we had the right to on the other islands, we wanted to vary the establishments. I might as well tell you straight away, the search for a croissant didn't last long, and neither did the search for a hamburger. Here's the address of the best croissant in Bali. We'll also tell you where to try some good cocktails on the beach and lots of other good tips.
Interactive map of Canggu Bali and the surrounding area
We'll detail all the addresses a little further down in this travel blog post.
The magic worked for us. We hope it will work for you too.
One thing's for sure, we've fallen under the spell of Canggu and we'll tell you why.
When you think of Bali, you think, and rightly so, of rice terraces, magnificent temples, friendly, smiling people and a Zen environment. But Bali is also about mass tourism, hyper-developed areas like Kuta and 'scams' for naïve travellers. The Island of the Gods has many faces, and that's what makes it so charming and unique.
Here we reveal our favourites in Canggu, as well as the best addresses and tips for organising and making the most of your future stay in Canggu.
Canggu, the new hot spot in southern Bali.
Canggu, the surfing spot in southern Bali, has become THE fashionable spot for travellers in recent years. Everything moves very fast on the Island of the Gods, and in Canggu, new addresses are beginning to multiply. But Canggu still has an endearing atmosphere and brings together all the must-sees and clichés of Bali: the beach, unforgettable sunsets, surf spots, rice fields and temples.
A few kilometres to the north of bustling Kuta Bali, but sharing the same bay, Canggu is even more tranquil. Surrounded by rice paddies, the accommodation is quiet and often upmarket. There are, however, a few guesthouses offering unbeatable value for money. We'll tell you more about them below in the Where to sleep section. Canggu is the best place to start and finish your stay in Bali, as it's only 1h-1h30 from Denpasar airport.
The surrounding beaches are good surfing spots and are still popular with the locals. The Canggu district is an 8km stretch of coastline that includes several seaside villages.
Some call Canggu "the Brooklyn of Bali". Canggu attracts eco-responsible travellers who love organic restaurants and trendy addresses. Many establishments offer yoga classes or introductory surfing courses. As for beach bars, there are a few, but they're all very human. And we love that.
Although Canggu is developing very fast, we find that the atmosphere is still very relaxed. Apart from the few shopping streets in the village and the few stretches of beach that are busier at sunset and known for their bars, you soon find yourself in the rice fields with the locals. And if you go a few kilometres further on, you soon find yourself almost alone, or even better, surrounded by Balinese.
There is still plenty of land available for shops or villas, but prices have literally soared, especially since the reopening of the borders following the Covid19 pandemic.
We recommend hiring a scooter to explore the surrounding area. Otherwise, there's always the Gojek option to get around. For our part, we loved getting lost on a scooter on the back roads around Canggu, in the middle of the rice paddies. Read our 5 tips for hiring a scooter in Bali, because to drive in Indonesia, you need an international motorbike licence, not a car licence. You can still hire a scooter even if you don't have a licence, but in the event of an accident, you won't be insured and it could be extremely expensive.
Another point of interest of the Canggu spot is its proximity to the site and temple of the same name, Tanah Lot, a must-see on any trip to Bali. We invite you to read our dedicated article on this temple facing the sea.
Before sharing our best addresses in Canggu, we'd like to tell you this travel anecdote that perfectly illustrates why we love Bali so much.
On the road between Canggu and Tanah Lot, you can quickly find yourself on your own, passing through villages where the locals have a real smile on their face and the children's eyes sparkle. And to top it all off, at the end of the road, you're lucky enough to come across a sandy beach that no tourists have ever visited. The magic happens straight away.
The locals gather for a ceremony at sunset to place offerings on the sand. Children (and older children) play withhuge kites that soar high into the sky. Everyone is dressed in traditional costume. Gradually, the scent of incense fills the beach and traditional music begins to resound in the distance.
We're right in the middle of all this fervour and colour. A magical and unforgettable moment, of course, with dozens of smiles exchanged.
Simple, pure moments of shared happiness that make you fall in love with Bali.
We took advantage of these few days to try out a number of addresses, explore the surrounding area and enjoy the sunsets, which are always so magical in Bali! We never tire of it.
The beaches of Canggu
Each of the beaches in Canggu Bay has its own atmosphere.
Echo Beach is the best known of the local beaches. It's at the end of the busiest street in Canggu. It's THE place to enjoy a cocktail while admiring the sunset or the favourite beach of beginner surfers. Go to la Brisa to be seen and/or enjoy a drink in an idyllic seaside setting.
Batu Bolong, another nice beach a little further south. There are some fairly classy hotels and a few restaurants.
Our favourite? The locals' beach. It's up to you to find it... by getting lost in the paths that wind through the rice fields between Canggu and Tanah Lot.
Canggu Bali travel guide: Where to sleep? Where to eat and have a drink?
Prices shown are from July 2019 and include VAT unless otherwise stated.
Cocktails at Echo Beach
Echo Beach has the largest number of bars and restaurants. Mind you, it's not Kuta here - the atmosphere is great at sunset, but after that it quickly gets very quiet again. It's the perfect place to have a cocktail and watch the sunset. All the bars are the same, so go with your gut feeling or follow the music you like. For your information, the historic establishment on this beach (Old Mans) has closed its doors for good, but don't panic, just take a stroll along the beach to find what you're looking for.
1 cocktail will cost you around IDR 100,000, but there are happy hours.
Jalan Pantai Batu Bolong in Badung
Where can you try Bali's best pizzas in Canggu?
After several weeks in Indonesia, you'll probably want a change from nasi goreng and grilled fish. Several pizzerias have opened in and around Canggu. Here are our 3 favourites:
La Baracca and its pizzas, but that's not all!
L'Osteria and its excellent Neapolitan pizzas. We love this restaurant with its southern Italian feel.
Pizzeria Arte in the village of Pererenan is our current favourite.
Change your look in Canggu - Hairdresser 100m from the Guesthouse
What's a hairdresser got to do with it? Well, after several weeks spent roaming theisland of Sulawesi, we didn't look like much. So when we saw a salon that looked like a real salon, we didn't hesitate for long. The salon is run by a young, bubbly Australian. We had a great time chatting with her about travel, entrepreneurship and life in general. So if you're in the area and want a little refreshment or a change of look, JUST GO!
IDR 200,000 for a men's haircut (EUR 14).
Lunch at BJ's Burger (permanently closed)
A simple address specialising in burgers. The plates are well-stocked and the burgers are decent without being excellent.
Plain Beef Burger 55,000 IDR or 3.90 EUR - Bacon and egg burger 70,000 IDR or 5 EUR.
1 Coke: IDR 15,000 (EUR 1.10) - 1 French Fry: IDR 10,000 (EUR 0.70).
Bakery in Canggu Bali: Monsieur Spoon
This bakery and patisserie was run by a Frenchman in 2017. The establishment has since been sold, but the pastries are still good. Great croissants! And their espresso is TOP too! You can also have lunch inside, in the cool of the garden, or outside.
But living in Canggu, we've found much better. Le 7.AM Bakers is located near Jalan Bumbak and therefore closer to Umalas. The baguettes, croissants and pains au chocolat are definitely the best in Bali. You'll feel like you're being delivered straight from France!
Warung de Pererenan Beach
Not far from Echo Beach, the atmosphere is quieter here. Perfect for sipping a beer or a mojito with your loved one. Only one warung here.
1 local beer "Bintang": IDR 25,000 or EUR 1.80.
Canteen Canggu
The address we recommend for lunch. Huge, delicious salads, fresh fruit juices, a relaxed atmosphere and Zen music. In short, a place we love.
Roasted Pear, Almond and Feta 60,000 IDR or 4.20 EUR - Beef Burger 55,000 IDR or 3.90 EUR.
1 mixed juice: IDR 25,000 or EUR 1.80 - 1 Canteen lemonade: IDR 20,000 or EUR 1.40.
Dinner at Casa Tua (ex Dandelion)
A slightly more chic address and a warung that's still cheap! The perfect address for a romantic dinner. You can sit down in the large open-plan dining room or in the garden. The service is impeccable, friendly and very dynamic, and once again the prices are very reasonable. Go go go!
Ayam Bakar Sambal Sereh: IDR 25,000 or EUR 1.80 - Kare Chicken or Mie Goreng Chicken: IDR 45,000 or EUR 3.20.
1 Coca 18,000 IDR or 1.30 EUR - 1 Lemon Juice 20,000 IDR or 1.40 EUR.
Where to stay in Canggu? The best accommodation plan
The best thing to do in Canggu is to rent a villa in the middle of the rice fields. It's great for families or groups of friends. There are also some fine hotels. But if you're looking for a cheap, secret guesthouse, we've got just what you need! What's more, the owners are very welcoming and the staff very professional.
Run by a couple of German travellers, the rooms facing a magnificent swimming pool are spacious, bright and very clean. Everything has been thought out with the comfort of guests in mind, as the owners are former frequent travellers who know exactly what travellers expect when they decide to stay in this style of guesthouse. What's more, the staff are very friendly and the breakfast is extra, so what more could you ask for?
8 rooms, set back from the main road and therefore in a quiet location, all overlooking a large, pleasant swimming pool and a beautifully planted tropical garden. You feel at home right from the start.
Breakfast is served outside by the pool. We love it. Breakfast is excellent. Served from 8am to 11am, it's complete (eggs/lemon or orange juice/fruit/coffee/tea/toast) and you can ask for as much as you like.
Wifi is great
Scooters can be hired on site
You can't eat there except for breakfast. But there is a huge choice of restaurants nearby.
For only 50 to 60 euros a night!
Check availability and special offers for the Papaya Guesthouse on booking.com.
In conclusion, our opinion of Canggu (and where to go out bonus)
We really recommend staying in Canggu if you're exploring Bali on your own. It's also the ideal spot to learn to surf in a relaxed atmosphere, as well as taking advantage of the many places to eat and go out. In fact, when it comes to going out, tourists will prefer to go to the Black Sand Brewery to enjoy their delicious cocktails on Jalan Batu Bolong, Canggu's main street. Sunset over the rice fields is guaranteed if you decide to go upstairs. For night owls, the Shishi is THE nightclub for dancing to the latest music and meeting new people.
Tanah Lot, Kuta, Legian and Seminyak are all within easy reach of Canggu. You can also easily take a day trip into the interior of the island to discover the rice paddies and temples by chauffeured car or scooter.
The beach, around 10 minutes' scooter ride from the accommodation, is not overcrowded, which is rare in the south of the island of Gods. In short, Canggu is the ideal spot to get away from the crowds on the other nearby beaches. Although we also enjoy staying in Seminyak (click on this link to see where we stayed on one of our trips to Bali), the atmosphere is very different in Canggu, even though the villas and restaurants are growing fast but always in style.