Say Bali and most people think paradise. There are stunning sunsets, sculpted rice terraces and a temple on almost every corner. And for less-spiritual seekers, this steamy Indonesian island also has great surfing and a rollicking nightlife. Sure, it's gotten pretty touristy, especially on the pub crawl along Kuta Beach, where beer-swilling Australians rule. And while recent terrorist bombings have rattled Bali's blissful pace (it is a Hindu-majority island in a Muslim-majority nation), they have done little to temper its popularity or discourage super-chic resorts from being built. Paradise, after all, is as close as the nearest temple, finding yourself on your knees with a blue flower pressed between your fingertips, asking for blessings from Brahma or one of the other gods.
Friday
3 p.m. 1) MONKEYING AROUND
There's nothing like 200 macaques grooming each other, snuggling together and nibbling on small bananas to make you realize you're not in Kansas anymore. To find the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary (Jalan Monkey Forest, Padangtegal, Ubud; 62-361-971304; www.monkeyforestubud.com) drive an hour north of Kuta Beach to the town of Ubud, often called the cultural heart of Bali. The monkeys, the town's most beloved residents, live in a dense, jungley stretch of green at the southern edge of town, complete with its own temple. A word to the wise: Leave your snacks at home and don't buy any bananas on the way in unless you enjoy being mauled by possibly rabid little tykes. When it comes to bananas, the monkeys will win. Admission is 10,000 rupiah, or about $1.10 at 9,270 rupiah to the dollar.
4:30 p.m. 2) FOUR HANDS BEATS TWO
It's said that labor is cheaper than electricity on Bali, so why not book a four-handed massage at Spa Hati (Jalan Raya Andong 14, Peliatan, Ubud; 62-361-977-578; www.spahati.com), a stone and thatched-roof compound at the edge of town. Add in a lulur body scrub — a traditional Javanese blend of rice flour and herbs — for 90 minutes of rapture (225,000 rupiah). Afterward, the unhurried staff lets you relax for as long as you want in the hot tub, listening to little frogs make big noises in the rice paddy next door. And about that cheap labor: spa profits help support the Bali Hati Foundation, which runs community programs, including a school for local children.
7:30 p.m. 3) DANCE, DANCE, DANCE
Bali is brimming with fire dances, mask dances, trance dances, monster dances and puppet shows, all of which have been refined over the centuries to the point that eyeballs, fingertips and toes all move in elaborate choreographed precision. On a typical night in Ubud you can take your pick from a half-dozen different shows. It's worth ducking into the Ubud Palace (Jalan Raya Ubud; 62-361975057; 80,000 rupiah) to watch good and evil duke it out in the Barong dance. Set in a Balinese-style pavilion, the dance is performed by two fat guys whose choreographed fight scenes draw inevitable comparisons to the WWF.
9 p.m. 4) GO FOR THE GRILL
For tasty Balinese food in a relaxed setting, expatriates flock to Naughty Nuri's Warung (Jalan Raya Sanggingan, across from the Neka Art Museum; 62-361-977547), a cozy hangout opened by Isnuri Suryatmi and her husband, Brian Kenny, who grew up in New Jersey. It does justice to classic Balinese dishes like chicken sate (27,000 rupiah) and nasi goreng — Indonesian fried rice with vegetables and meat (17,000 rupiah). But the main draw of this grubby little warung, or food stall, is the grill. There are succulent pork chops, steaks from Australia and even great hamburgers — and something uncommon in Asia, a good microbrew: Storm Pale Ale (12,000 rupiah).
Saturday
9 a.m. 5) GET DOWN IN THE RIVER
Most of the super-luxury hotels in Ubud are built along the top of the gorge that the Ayung River runs through. There's a good reason for that: the views are gorgeous. Down on the river, climb aboard a rubber raft and watch the thick vines, low-flying swallows and waterfalls go by. Bali Adventure Tours (62-361-721480; www.baliadventuretours.com) runs 90-minute trips down the river starting at $60 for a morning trip that includes a basic lunch of rice and egg rolls.
2:30 p.m. 6) MUSEUM MILE
Ubud's artistic appeal is, for the most part, historical. Its reputation dates from the 1930s when Western artists and intellectuals like Walter Spies, Colin McPhee and Rudolf Bonnet moved in, boosting the local arts scene and sparking foreign interest in this tiny island. To understand that history and see some fine examples of Balinese art, start at the Neka Art Museum (Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Campuhan; 62-361-975074; www.museumneka.com), which was founded in 1982 by Suteja Neka, an art dealer whose son now runs the slick Komaneka Fine Art Gallery (Jalan Monkey Forest; 62-361-976090; gallery.komaneka.com). For some high camp, make a quick stop at the Blanco Renaissance Museum (Jalan Campuhan; 62-361-975502; www.blancobali.com); the only thing grander than the peccadilloes of Antonio Blanco, a Spanish painter who settled in Bali in 1952, was his ego.
5:30 p.m. 7) BEST SHOW IN TOWN
Ubud closes early. By 11 p.m., everyone is home, leaving the streets to bands of marauding but basically harmless dogs. If you want to make a night of it, head south to Seminyak, a sophisticated beachside alternative just north of Kuta. The hour-long taxi runs about 150,000 to 200,000 rupiah ($16 to $22). For a front-row seat for the dazzling sunset, grab a chair at Breeze, a sleek beachside bar and restaurant at the Samaya Hotel (Jalan Laksmana; 62-361-731149, www.thesamayabali.com), and order a glass of wine (about 70,000 rupiah). The teak deck juts out so close to the surf you can almost feel the foam from the breakers.
7 p.m. 8) BUST THAT BIKINI
When the last ray of sunlight has faded, head next door for dinner at La Lucciola (Kaya Ayu Beach, Temple Petitenget, Kerobokan; 62-361-730838), a popular beachfront spot, for rich Italian fare like prawn and snapper pie with truffled potatoes (125,000 rupiah) and orecchiette with pancetta and gorgonzola (80,000 rupiah). There might be a line, but don't worry. Sit at the bar for free hors d'oeuvres and watch the frangipani flowers fall around you.
During your 36 hours in Bali, make sure to experience the vibrant nightlife at Ku Dé Ta. This trendy spot, facing the surf, is a haven for stylish individuals, adorned in fashionable macramé outfits, and attracts attention with its flashy atmosphere. If you visit during the high season, you might even catch a glimpse of the highlights on the sold DVD. Relax on a beachfront chaise lounge and marvel at the illuminated waves crashing ashore under the floodlights.
After hours, get ready to dance the night away at the Double Six Club. With its expansive dance floor and thrilling bungee jumping experience on weekend nights, this club is the place to be. But don't arrive too early – the party doesn't start until 3 a.m.
Sunday morning calls for a refreshing pick-me-up. If you're looking for something different from Bali's renowned coffee, visit Tutmak Warung in Ubud. Popular among expatriates, this casual establishment offers an ideal spot to enjoy an iced latte while overlooking a local soccer field frequented by energetic children.
11 a.m. 11) PARADISE WITHIN PARADISE
The six-hectare Botanic Garden Ubud (Kutuh Kaja, Ubud; 62-361-970951; www.botanicgardenbali.com) opened last summer — a magical park with white fairy lilies, weeping figs, a labyrinth, banana twist orchids and a miniature rainforest. Stay for lunch at the Chocolate House Café, which is housed in a 130-year-old jogglo, a traditional Javanese hut made of teak wood. The guava and passion fruit juices (12,000 rupiah) are garden fresh and the chicken kutu kaja, which is cooked slowly in banana leaves and served with red Tabanan rice, is a local specialty (42,000 rupiah). The menu rotates, but if it has it, don't miss the coconut and jackfruit ice puter, ice cream made with coconut milk in a hand-cranked drum.
2 p.m. 12) SARONG AS ART
Ubud is famous for art, which is probably why an awful lot of drek is now on sale. Fear not. For the good stuff, start at the Seniwati Gallery of Art by Women (Jalan Sriwedari 2b, Banjar Taman; 62-361-975485; www.seniwatigallery.com), which Mary Northmore, the British-born wife of Abdul Aziz, a prominent Indonesian artist, founded in 1991 after she was told by several Indonesian art experts that "Balinese women don't paint." For textiles, stop in at Threads of Life (Jalan Kajeng 24; 62-361-972187; www.threadsoflife.com), which commissions local weavers to make textiles the same ways their grandmothers did, which is to say painstakingly. Even if you're not in the market for a handspun sarong for 4.3 million rupiah, it's well worth the visit.
The Essential Information
If you're planning a trip to Bali, Cathay Pacific offers flights from Kennedy Airport to Denpasar, with a layover in Hong Kong. To explore the beautiful island, fares start at approximately $1,500. From Denpasar's Ngurah Rai Airport, you can easily reach Ubud by taking a taxi, which costs around 150,000 rupiah, equivalent to about $16 (based on the current exchange rate of 9,270 rupiah per dollar). Once in Ubud, find an array of splendid hotel deals in Ubud (Bali) that cater to all budgets. For longer trips or half-day excursions, taxis can be hired as well, with a negotiation for a fair price, typically around 350,000 rupiah.
Discovering Ubud
Central Ubud presents a vibrant atmosphere, akin to an open-air marketplace. However, if you prefer serene rice fields over bustling shopping experiences, consider staying in southern Ubud, closer to the Monkey Forest. Find tranquility in Nyuh Kuning village, where you will find the peaceful Alam Shanti and its sister hotels, Alam Indah and Alam Jiwa. These accommodations, located along Jalan Nyuh Butan, offer rooms ranging from $50 to $175 (per night).
Luxury and Serenity at the Four Seasons
For those seeking luxury and seclusion, the Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan is an excellent choice. Built around a stunning rice paddy, the resort provides exquisite villas featuring private plunge pools. Take in the breathtaking sunset views while enjoying a refreshing cocktail at the Jati Bar, situated on the edge of the Ayung River. Prices for rooms at the Four Seasons Resort start at $460.